I’ve just found a notebook that I wrote in exactly one year ago. Random names, advice and things to buy before we packed up our two kids and worldly goods and moved to the Rock of the Pacific. We chose to leave our winter boots, champagne flutes and iphones back in NZ, and instead wisely chose to fill our container with Purex toilet paper, sundried tomatoes and enough Lego to rebuild our new home. Not to mention four pairs of reef shoes (each) and 400 citronella candles.
One year on and the names in that notebook have now become our Niuean family. The advice makes me smile, and the things to buy seem so trivial and non-essential. Is one year all it takes to adjust from born and bred J.A.F.A to island mum?
My husband and I both led busy lives. We were work-a-hoilcs, and juggled this with two young sons and a more than healthy social life. We loved life and lived it to the max. But when the opportunity came to move to a remote island in the Pacific, we both recognised that this was a timely and much needed adjustment. Scary – hell yes. But also the right place to go at the right time of our lives.
Hayden and I had a week in Niue to help us decide if it was going to work out. It took about 4 hours before we confessed our love for the place, and started writing our lists of things to pack and the non-essentials to sell on trade me. Flying into Niue was like discovering Madagascar (or how I imagine Madagascar, from watching our kids’ movie) Nothing but deep blue ocean, then a gorgeous green lush landscape. It seemed slightly daunting there were very few buildings, but the scenery was breath taking. Fiji and the Cooks had nothing on this place.
I remember fondly our drive from the airport to the hotel. Not a lot to see out the window except the green lush bush, until we snuck a peek at the coastline, with huge cliffs falling to the ocean, and massive waves breaking half way up. Our driver, however, made up for things. Stan is a successful businessman, and now Member of Parliament. Educated and worldly, yet moved back to Niue to raise his family and make the most of the ‘good life’. The way Stan joked about Niue being the safest country in the world. The bank has never been robbed, and you’ll never get your car nicked… as they’ve got nowhere to go. The reason why locals and tourists leave their keys in the ignition and never lock the car doors.
Exactly one year later, I am so in love with our new home. Our two boys (now 2 ½ and 4 ½) are so lucky to be growing up in a country where kindness and nature prevail. I fondly describe life as ‘living at the bach’. The kids ride around on their bikes from house to house in the village, and even bike to the airport to see who’s getting off the weekly flight (unaccompanied). Fresh veggies get left on your dining table, and it may take a week to figure out who the generous neighbour was. It’s the norm to leave your house unlocked – nothing will get taken, but you may come home to fresh fish in the fridge or fruit on the bench.
The only timetable we really take note of is the tides. Which swimming spot to explore is often the hardest decision of the week. Exploring the reef at low tide has become a favourite for us. When our youngest son chases sea snakes with enthusiasm, and confidently picks up hermit crabs, you realise the reef can be a great classroom. Our oldest son however has the benefit of going to ECE (Early Childhood Education). As the only Palangi kid in the class, he’s taught in Niuean and has embraced the new language and culture. When I caught him singing the national anthem in the bath last week, I didn’t know whether I should laugh or cry. A very proud and humbled mum.
There are tough days. Without a doubt. Being away from family takes its toll. And yes – there are plenty of home comforts we miss. But there are far more days where we pinch ourselves and discuss how winning lotto could never buy such pleasure. Heading out for a morning fish with dolphins dancing on the bow of the boat; partaking in local village festivities and watching your kids polish off a coconut faster than they would a fanta; and that feeling you get driving to work in the morning when every car you pass gives you a friendly wave. Nowhere else in the world will you find a more loving, accommodating, fun and captivating culture.
We are so privileged to living in Niue. And proud to call it home.
